DRINKER'S
DELIGHT
The user of this
10-pint drinking horn
can't have been afraid
of some pretty heavy
boozing. It comes
from the Iron Age
grave at Hochdorf
near Stuttgart, dating
from about 550 BC
12|British Archaeology | February 2001
Iron Age leaders bolstered
their claim to rule by
giving!easts awash with
prodigious quantities of
booze, writes Bettina Arnold
INRON
AGE
EUROPE
A
c some time around
550 bc, a great leader was
buried under a mound in
what is now south-west
Germany. The walls of
his log cabin-style burial chamber were
draped in fabric, and he was laid out on
a decorated bronze couch covered with
furs and other material.
About him lay the trappings of
wealth and power. The couch was held
up by cast bronze human figures riding
unicycles. Around the chieftain's neck
lay a gold tore, and on his right wrist
was a gold bracelet. His bronze belt
plate and iron dagger were both
decorated with sheet gold, as were his
shoes. On his head he wore a conical
hat made of birchbark. Aquiver of
arrows hung on the wall.
Yet most impressive of all was the
array of feasting and drinking
equipment buried with him. Against
one wall of the chamber stood a four-
wheeled wagon laden with nine bronze
plates and three bronze serving
platters, as well as equipment for
carving and serving large cuts of meat.
Eight large drinking horns, probably
from the now-extinct aurochs, were
decorated with gold and hung from
hooks in the wall, while a ninth horn—
a tremendous thing capable of holding
10 pints (5.5 litres)—hung over the
chieftain's head.
In one corner stood an enormous
bronze cauldron with decorative cast
bronze lions around the rim. Badly
worn, and repaired several times, the
cauldron had clearly enjoyed hearty use
over a number of years. And inside, to
accompany our chieftain to the
Otherworld, it contained over 600
pints (350 litres) of mead. By the time
the grave at Hochdorf near Stuttgart
was excavated by J org Biel in 1978-79,
the mead had become a dark,
shrunken, cake-like deposit in the
bottom of the cauldron.
The inclusion of feasting equipment,
drinking horns, a cauldron and alcohol
in this prince's tomb provides the
clearest possible evidence for the
importance of feasting in Iron Age
Europe. Moreover the Hochdorf burial
is far from unique. Every undisturbed,
high status burial found on the
Continent from the late Hallstatt and
early LaTene periods (about 600-400
bc) contains feasting and drinking
equipment. My own excavations last
summer at a burial mound near
Heuneburg in Germany produced yet
another high-status grave with
cauldron and spear points, sword and
possibly a shield.
Dispensing prodigious quantities of
alcoholic drink to followers was an
important part of the political career of
a prehistoric leader in western Europe
during this period. The archaeology is
supported by documentary sources,
not only near-contemporary classical
texts such as Poseidonius (2nd century
bc) but also later texts from Ireland and
Wales reflecting the continuation of
the tradition.
These texts suggest that the
ability to give feasts awash
with alcoholic liquor was a
key part of a leader's claim to
rule. Such feasts might take
place at inauguration ceremonies such
as dynastic weddings, or to accompany
the distribution of loot or booty from
raids or trading expeditions.
Feasts of various types — community
feasts, work-party feasts given to
reward workers for the completion of
FEASTING
IN STYLE
The battered
Hochdorf cauldron
(right) seems to
have had years of
use. From the
same grave, the
chieftain's couch
(below) suggests
that at some feasts
Iron Age leaders
aped the reclining
style of the Greek
symposium
1 A| British Archaeology
communal building projects, ritual or
even 'political' feasts—have roots deep
in prehistory-
Ceramic vessel sets probably used to
consume beer or mead appear mainly in
male burials from the late Neolithic.
By the Bronze Age drinking vessels
were being made of sheet metal,
primarily bronze or gold. However, the
peak of feasting—and in particular, of
the 'political' type of feast—came in
the late Hallstatt period (about 600-
450 bc), soon after the foundation of
the Greek colony of Massalia
(Marseille) at the mouth of the Rhone.
From that date on, the blood of the
grape began to make its way north and
east along major river systems together
with imported metal and ceramic
drinking vessels from the Greek world.
Wine was thus added to the list of
mood-altering beverages — such as
mead and ale (see box overleaf) —
available to establish social networks
in Iron Age Europe. Attic pottery
fragments found at hillforts such as
Heuneburg in Germany and luxury
goods such as the monumental 5th
century Greek bronze krater (or wine
mixing vessel) found at Vix in Burgundy
supply archaeological evidence of this
interaction. Organic containers such as
leather or wooden wine barrels may
also have travelled north into Europe
but have not survived. It is unknown
what goods were traded in return, but
they may have included salted meat,
hides, timber, amber and slaves.
The rarity value of wine, as well as its
relatively long shelf-life compared to
ale, added to its appeal for an Iron Age
political leader, allowing him to
programme his feast and his display of
impressive imported goods for the time
when it would do him the most
political good. Classical authors
underline the value of wine to
northerners: 'The drink of the wealthy
classes is wine imported from Italy or
from the territory of Marseille,'wrote
Poseidonius (Book 23, paraphrased by
Athenaeus). 'The lower classes drink
wheaten beer prepared with honey'
The Vix burial, belonging to a
princess who died around 450 bc,
shows that feasting goods of the very
highest quality were imported from
the Mediterranean. The bronze krater,
with its gorgon-head handle terminals,
frieze decorations and the cast female
figure that constitutes the handle of
the lid, is the most spectacular piece of
classical Greek metalwork to survive
anywhere, including all the known
pieces from Greece itself. The
remaining pieces of the drinking
assemblage —all of them imported—
are equally impressive.
Feasting equipment found
in Iron Age burials across
Europe is extremely
variable. Metal vessels,
mostly bronze, range from
enormous cists the size and shape of
modern rubbish bins, and cauldrons
like the Hochdorf example, to pitchers
and single serving cups. Sieves were
used for straining out spices, flower
petals, wax and other additives, and
ladles to serve out the brew. Potter)'
vessels include cups, goblets, bowls,
bottle-like forms, and pitchers, both
locally-made and —during the Iron
Age—increasingly imported from
Etruria and Greece. Plates and
trenchers made of bronze also occur,
although organic materials like wood
MEDIEVAL
IRELAND
Feasting equipment
from medieval
Ireland was
remarkably similar
to Iron Age
equipment from the
Continent. Above
left, a medieval cup
from Corran,
Co Armagh; right,
the 12th century
Kavanagh Charter
Horn, which was
cited 300 years
later as grounds
for a claim to the
kingship of Leinster
NO EXPENSE
SPARED
Goods of the very
highest quality left
the civilized land of
classical Greece for
barbarian Europe
in the 5th century
BC, such as the
spectacular mixing
bowlorkrater
(below) found in a
female grave atVix
in Burgundy
were probably more common but tend
not to be preserved.
Cutlery is limited to knives and
occasionally axes, probably to remove
joints of meat, although in Britain meat
forks for spearing chunks floating in a
large cooking vessel are also found.
Other equipment includes couches,
possibly in imitation of the Greek and
Roman habit of reclining to eat, and
fire dogs, probably part of the hearth
fittings that would have been the focus
of the feast. Some types of feasting
equipment remained in use for
centuries. Drinking horns, for example,
are found from at least 550 bc at
Hochdorf until the 18th century in
Scotland and Ireland.
W
hat, then, occurr ed
at a drinking-feast?
And why was alcohol
regarded as so
important?
Unfortunately we have no eye-witness
reports by members of these Celtic-
speaking cultures. Classical texts
suggest that feasts involving a chieftain
and his retinue were held in a circle
around a central hearth or fireplace,
with the alcoholic beverage circulating
either in a common cup or being served
by retainers.
Several authors refer to a hierarchy
within the retinue reflected by the
DRINK
BEFORE
HISTORY
There were two alcoholic drinks
available to northern European
peoples in the pre-Roman Iron Age.
One was mead, a fermented honey
drink, the other was beer or ale.
Mead required large quantities of
honey, itself a valuable commodity in
the absence of other sweeteners and
before the domestication of the honey
bee. One of the earliest examples of
mead comes from a Bronze Age
burial at Ashgrove in Fife, Scotland
dating to about 1000 BC. Ale, more
widely available than mead, was
made from barley, a grain introduced
to Europe from the Near East which
made its appearance in Britain
around 3000 BC. The word beer in fact
comes from the Old English word
baere, or barley.
Wine was what 'civilized' people in
the worlds of Greece and Rome drank
by preference, while beer was
shunned because of its association
with the non-Mediterranean 'Great
Unwashed'. The distaste of
Mediterranean cultures for beer is
summed up by their pejorative terms
for those who consumed it, like the
Latin epithet saba/'rar/us (beer-
swiller).
Prehistoric versions of beer
actually were pretty unpalatable.
They were sweet, unhopped, thin
gruels that could only be consumed
through straws to avoid ingesting the
non-liquid ingredients. An example
of this can be seen represented on a
Mesopotamian cylinder seal from the
3rd millennium BC city-state of Ur.
The flowers of the hop plant that
provide the head and flavour in
modern beer and act as a
preservative were not added until
about 200 AD in Babylon and not until
post-medieval times in Europe.
Distilled liquor (including whisky) is
unknown in Europe before the 13th
century AD.
It is extremely rare to find the
remains of alcoholic drinks in
prehistoric burials. Most early
excavators took great care to scrub
all vessels within an inch of their
lives, effectively removing all traces
of contents. Preservation is
contingent on conditions as well.
An early example of mead comes
BRITISH
DRINKERS
The wooden bucket
with copper alloy
fittings from a 1st
century BC grave at
Aylesford, Kent
(above)suggests
that 'power
drinking'was not
just a continental
phenomenon
from a Neolithic beaker from
Ashgrove Farm, Methilhill, Fife
dating to about 1000 BC, which was
found to contain two different kinds
of honey, possibly representing the
remains of some form of fermented
mead-like beverage. A Bronze Age
oak-coffin burial from a tumulus at
Egtved, Denmark, contained a birch-
bark vessel that revealed traces of
honey, cereal grains (probably
emmer wheat) and fruits and leaves
used for flavouring, such as
meadowsweet (the word actually
derives from medesweet, or mead-
sweet). The same mixture was found
at the Danish Iron Age site of
Juellinge. This combination of
ingredients would have yielded a
mead-ale-fruit wine blend.
Wine residues have been found in
amphorae in La Tene contexts in
France as well as in Britain. If the
preservation conditions turn out to
be favourable, the contents might be
identified of a bronze cauldron and a
ceramic drinking cup found during my
own excavations last year of two Iron
Age graves near Heuneburg in
Germany. It is likely given the date of
the burial (6th century BC) that the
cauldron will be found to have
contained mead, and the cup will
show traces of either ale or mead.
Beer and mead, and combinations
of mead-beer-fruit wine like the
Danish concoction described above,
are all still being made today by home
brewers. The Sumerians left us
written instructions for the
production of beer without hops, and
similar gruel-like ales that must be
18lRrifkh ArrhapnlnnvlFohniArv?nrn
sipped through a straw are still
produced in some parts of Africa,
and elsewhere. The earliest ales
were more of a mildly intoxicating
food than a beverage.
They were also relatively tow in
alcohol content compared to mead.
However, 'mead' covers a number of
variations depending on the amount
of honey used, the length of time
spent in fermentation, and how the
beverage is subsequently mixed.
Iron Age mead was not as potent as
the wine produced in the Greek and
Roman worlds. If Iron Age elites were
concerned with the mood-altering
impact of alcoholic beverages—
looking to get the biggest bang for
their buck—that would explain,
at least in part, the appeal of
Mediterranean booze.
GREEK
IMPORTS
Mediterranean
goods, including
amphorae and
other pottery
remains such as the
painted fragments
of Attic ware found
at Heuneburg
hillfort in Germany
(above), point to the
cross-European
trade that existed
in the Iron Age.
In exchange for
the luxuries of the
Classical world,
slaves, hides and
raw materials
travelled south
seating arrangements, usually involving
proximity to the leader of the group
and access to the largest quantity of
liquor and the biggest cut of meat.
Music was certainly part of Etruscan
feasts, and possibly of feasts further
north. Dancing may have been involved
as well. Unfortunately, the Classical
texts are silent on these sorts of details,
preferring to report that Celtic feasting
involved bragging competitions that
frequently led to brawls, even death.
The closest we can get to an insider's
account comes from the literature of
medieval Ireland. The link between the
oral and written traditions there, and
to some extent also in Wales, suggests
that cultural continuity in certain
aspects of society was maintained,
surviving even the introduction of
Christianity
Continuity can be demonstrated
most easily in the specialised objects
and equipment associated with
drinking and feasting. Vessels made of
bronze, gold, wood, horn and pottery
are described in the Irish literature,
and these correspond to archaeological
finds from the early Iron Age on the
Continent and in the British Isles.
The political symbolism of drinking,
particularly the connection between
laith (Irish for liquor) and flaith (Irish
for sovereignty or lordship), appear to
have been maintained through time as
well. Drinking horns, such as those
found at Hochdorf, are frequently
referred to as symbols of authority and
kingship in Irish poetry, and as late as
the 15th century a 300-year-old
drinking horn was cited by the
Kavanagh family as the basis for their
claim to the kingship of Leinster.
The connection between the right
to rule and the ability to host a feast at
which alcoholic beverages are
distributed is a constant in the Irish
and Welsh literature. In the Irish Baile
in Scail, for example, Conn and his
followers are brought by the Phantom
before a seated girl wearing a gold
crown, with a silver vat in front of her,
and a vessel ofgold and a gold cup. As §
in most accounts of such inauguration §
feasts, the girl is the personification of a
Ireland, and whoever she offers the ale g
of sovereignty to will become king in a 3
symbolic wedding ritual.
The girl asks the Phantom to whom
the cup oi dergflaith (red ale) should be
given, and the Phantom indicates Conn.
One by one Conn's descendants file past,
each name being recorded in ogam script
by poets on four staves of yew. When the
Phantom and the girl disappear, the
drinking equipment that validates
Conn's right to rule remains with him
as a symbol ot his authority.
In another example from the Welsh
Mabinogion, Pwyll, Lord of Dyfed, is
about to celebrate his marriage to
Rhiannon when his rival Gwawl appears
on the scene and claims both Rhiannon
and the wedding or inauguration feast.
Pwyll, in a fit of prenuptial generosity
had promised Gwawl 'anything'.
Rhiannon, however, argues that while
she may be Pwyll's to 'give', the feast
belongs to her as the daughter of the
previous king, and she has already
promised it to the assembly
Since Gwawl cannot get both
Rhiannon and the feast (ie, the symbol
of sovereignty), he consents to wait a
year and a day until a new feast can be
prepared, and of course in that time
Pwyll and Rhiannon hatch a plan to
outwit him. Ultimately Pwyll gets
Rhiannon and the wedding feast, and
through them, the kingdom.
The symbolic meaning of
alcohol in Iron Age Europe
can be partly reconstructed.
Alcoholic drinks play a ritual
role in many societies, the
consumption of wine during Catholic
Mass being one example among many.
All alcoholic drinks are mood-altering
substances, and in many cultures are
considered as a way of communing with
some form of Otherworld.
This may explain in part why alcoholic
drinks are included as grave goods in the
burials of Iron Age chieftains. Their
inclusion may also imply the leader's
right to rule in the Otherworld.
The symbolic value of alcohol over
food is underlined by the fact that while
alcohol was interred in the Hochdorf
grave, no traces of meat or other food
were recovered.
Bettina Arnoldis/lssociate Professor of
Anthropology at the University of
Wisconsin-Milwaukee, Wisconsin, USA